Photo by Robert Cohen, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Spare No Rib

I like to say that the highest compliment I can pay as a restaurant critic is to return to a place on my own dime — and I’ve returned to Spare No Rib more than once since I reviewed it in 2014. I’ve returned for the pulled-pork sandwich, the best in town. I’ve returned for the tacos (especially the beef cheek), each of which chef Francisco Lopez pairs with the salsa that he thinks best suits it. I’ve returned for the corn fritters with spicy ranch dip and the chorizo-queso dip. Mostly, I’ve returned to marvel at a restaurant that pulls off the duo of barbecue and Mexican cuisine with equal aplomb. Spare No Rib’s menu is now also available for lunch at Bar Italia (13 Maryland Plaza), Tuesday through Sunday.