Photo by Christian Gooden, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Asian Kitchen

Your main course almost doesn’t matter at Asian Kitchen, the Korean restaurant in University City. As per Korean tradition, a selection of banchan accompanies your meal, except here this isn’t a selection but a parade of the small side dishes, plate after plate of kimchee and fermented this and pickled that and chile-spiked this and that. On a recent visit, I counted 20 banchan, and I’d ordered only a lunch portion of kimchee jigae, a delicious stew with kimchee, tofu and pork in a fiery broth. Yes, your main course matters. You’ll find the classics here, including bulgogi, bibimbap and various hot-pot broths.