Post-Dispatch file photo

Big Sky Cafe

Now 23 years old, restaurateur Tim Mallet’s Big Sky Cafe in Webster Groves still feels fresh. Chef Dominic Weiss keeps it so by eschewing this week’s trends in favor of dishes that rely on the strong natural flavors of seasonally appropriate fare. So my visit this past autumn began with pumpkin soup graced with the sweetness of apples and the smoke of bacon. My main course was pot roast braised in red wine, seasoned with rosemary, served over polenta with smoked gouda. Simple, yes, and thoroughly satisfying.