Post-Dispatch file photo


Bogart's Smokehouse

I’m running out of superlatives for Bogart’s Smokehouse. Since 2011, Michael Macchi, Niki Puto, Brian Scoggins and pitmaster extraordinaire Skip Steele have been serving world-class barbecue from this small Soulard storefront. (The space hasn’t grown; the queue to order, alas, has.) So I’ll say this: Bogart’s Smokehouse remains not just an incredible barbecue joint but an incredible restaurant, full stop, even though the smoked prime rib — my favorite dish here, and topped with smoked onions, maybe my favorite sandwich anywhere, ever — is no longer on the menu. Change is inevitable, and at least in this case that change has brought tri-tip sirloin steak and burnt ends to go with Bogart’s signature apricot-glazed ribs as well as its brisket, pastrami, pulled pork, turkey and chicken wings. With Steele’s mastery touch at the smoker — a perfect and consistent balance of smoke, meat and seasoning — you really can’t place a wrong order here (especially if you get the pit-smoked beans as your side).