Photo by Gabe Hartwig, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Milagro Modern Mexican

Milagro Modern Mexican finds itself in an awkward position: the star student whose cooler younger brother now attends the same school. Mission Taco Joint, the restaurant that brothers Adam and Jason Tilford opened after Milagro, has been a wild success. Much of what makes Mission so great, however, the Tilfords have been perfecting here since 2010: brilliantly flavored tacos, burritos and tortas that respect tradition without being hidebound by it. And Milagro still gives chef Jason a playground for more ambitious dishes, both from the regular menu (Oaxacan mole, cochinita pibil) and daily specials.