Photo by Roberto Rodriguez
Taste
Gerard Craft’s Taste has experienced some significant changes since opening in summer 2009 — most obviously, its relocation from its miniscule space adjacent to the original Niche to its current, much larger spot in the Central West End. At the end of 2014, however, Taste faced maybe its greatest challenge yet when executive chef Matthew Daughaday left to open his own restaurant. Over the past three years, through such dishes as pork scrapple and a take on traditional barbacoa tacos, Daughaday had given Taste a strong voice distinct from Craft’s other restaurants. Taking over as executive chef is Heather Stone, and while it’s too soon when I write this to judge her cooking on its own merits, my most recent visit to Taste suggests a seamless transition, with small plates that continue to punch above their weight in creativity and flavor. And Taste has done this before. Bar manager Kyle Mathis and his team have sustained the reputation set by master mixologist Ted Kilgore before he left to open Planter’s House.