Photos by Laurie Skrivan, St. Louis Post-Dispatch; Farmhaus
Farmhaus
Farmhaus shows few signs of the game a chef of Kevin Willmann’s stature — a former Food & Wine magazine “Best New Chef” and a multiple semifinalist for the “Best Chef: Midwest” James Beard Award — usually must play. The space is modest, verging on quaint. I can’t remember the last time I received a press release from the restaurant. Every so often Willmann will close it to go fishing. So maybe Willmann’s profile isn’t as high as it could or should be. It’s refreshing to enjoy a meal of Farmhaus’ caliber without the attendant rigamarole — and there just might be a connection between Willmann’s love of fishing and the fact that Farmhaus, among other things, is one of the best spots for seafood in town. I’ve lost track of how many great seafood dishes I’ve eaten here. A winter dinner featured lovely Maine lobster with charred grapefruit, baby carrots, a celery-root puree and a carrot-tarragon beurre monte, part of a tasting menu that showcased Willmann’s understated elegance (red beet agnolotti with roasted fennel, goat cheese and black walnuts) and modernist playfulness (an upscale take on Chinese-takeout beef and broccoli). If Farmhaus is underrated, its tasting menu is more so — though understandably, since it competes for attention against such regular-menu standards as the roasted Ozark Forest mushroom salad and Willmann’s signature Breakfast.
Last year's ranking: 4
Opened: 2010
Must order: Breakfast ($20)
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From the owners
Farmhaus supports local farms and responsible agriculture. The daily changing menus reflect our regions and seasonality, and the dishes are a refined take on Midwestern and Southern styles. Chef Kevin Willmann’s kitchen creates delicious, thoughtful and beautiful dishes and tasting menus in a comfortable neighborhood setting. Farmhaus offers lunch on Monday, and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are highly recommended for dinner.