Photo by Chris Lee, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Grapeseed

I’ve grown to appreciate Grapeseed even more during its second year. Nothing significant has changed, but now that the natural new-restaurant sparkle has faded, you can clearly see what a smart, sustainable project chef-owner Ben Anderson has built. Grapeseed is, first of all, a great neighborhood spot in Southampton’s booming Macklind Business District, a place to grab a drink and a bite (the signature turkey-leg nachos) or something more substantial (a steak or thick-cut pork chop). But Anderson’s thoughtful, unshowy cooking should draw diners from all over. I’ve returned especially for Anderson’s pastas: braised beef short rib with parsnip, carrot and onion over tagliatelle was a warming winter dish enlivened by sour cream and dill.

Opened: 2014

Must order: Turkey-leg nachos ($11)