Post-Dispatch file photo

Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant

In January, Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant owners Henok Gerbi and Atsede Wondem opened Moya Grill in the Delmar Loop, serving a fast-casual version of Ethiopian fare. This is a smart move. (On paper, at least; as I write this, Moya hasn’t been open long enough for a fair review.) Few restaurants are immune from the rising popularity of fast-casual dining. While fast-casual Ethiopian might seem counter-intuitive — the food is traditionally served on large pieces of the sour flatbread called injera and eaten by hand — the cuisine does offer advantages, especially when it follows the recipes at Meskerem. For nearly a decade now, this South Grand restaurant has served brilliantly seasoned dishes with broad appeal, whether you want a hearty beef dish (the berbere-spiced tibs wat) or lighter but still flavorful vegetarian fare (the cumin-kissed miser wat).

Opened: 2007

Must order: Tibs wat ($10.95)