Photo by Christian Gooden, St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

You probably already know about Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. Kevin Nashan’s long-awaited second restaurant was one of the most hyped and most acclaimed debuts of 2014. (I ranked it the No. 2 new restaurant of that year, a whisker behind Three Flags Tavern.) Without question, this is the place to go in St. Louis for lobster rolls, crab boils, and oysters raw or fried. But a recent meal here reminded me that hidden among all this seafood splendor is one of the best meat sandwiches in town. The beef brisket in the smoked brisket po’boy rivals what you’ll find at our better barbecue joints, and it doesn’t need any more accent than its dressing of lettuce, tomato, pickle and horseradish aioli.

Opened: 2014

Must order: Lobster roll (market price)