Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Remy's Kitchen & Wine Bar

The emphasis at Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar on small plates and Mediterranean fare — Middle Eastern and even some North African as well as southern European — has allowed Tim Mallet’s restaurant to stay vibrant for more than 20 years. These days, when every other hit cookbook is one of Ottolenghi’s, or seems to be, the food from executive chef Dominic Weiss (who recently succeeded longtime chef Lisa Slay) appears ahead of its time. On a recent stop here, I loved a straightforward, brightly flavored dish that set a single grilled lamb sausage atop warm farro tossed with radicchio, onion, celery root and grape tomatoes. The kitchen swings nimbly from fun snacks like perfectly crisp polenta fries with a harissa dipping sauce to more formal entrees, including my go-to order, the bronzed mahi-mahi over green lentils.

Opened: 1995

Must order: Bronzed mahi-mahi (lunch $11.95, dinner $19.50)