Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Taco Circus

Tex-Mex cuisine has enjoyed a renaissance, or at least a reputation-repair job, in recent years, thanks to advocates like the great Houston restaurant critic, cookbook author and restaurateur Robb Walsh. In St. Louis, Austin, Texas, natives Christian Ethridge and Mikey Carrasco are on a mission to reveal the glories of breakfast tacos, fajita meat and Frito pie. And the chorizo-egg tacos and the beef-fajita meat (in a taco or burrito) are revelations. But what’s most impressive about this tiny Bevo Mill spot is that Ethridge and Carrasco are managing to source quality, locally raised meats while keeping their prices low. It’s a Tex-Mex and a fast-food revolution.

Last year's ranking: New

Opened: 2015

Must order: Beef-fajita taco ($3.24)