Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Taqueria Durango

Taqueria Durango’s tacos stand out not only for their quality but also their variety. This is the only restaurant in town where I’ve regularly found such cuts as suadero (navel beef plate) and buche (pork stomach, though the same term also sometimes applies to pork esophagus). And of course there is the range of traditional taco fillings: carne asada, chorizo, pork al pastor, lengua, tripe. I’ve concentrated on tacos during my recent visits here at the expense of my favorite dish, the torta ahogada: a pork sandwich smothered in red-chile sauce. Eat it with a knife and fork — or wear a bib.

Opened: 2003

Must order: Torta ahogada ($6.99)