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The Shaved Duck

Who am I to argue with Guy Fieri? Seriously, as easy as it is to make fun of the Frosted One, Fieri has featured some fine St. Louis restaurants on Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” including three in this year’s STL 100: Dressel’s Public House, Guerrilla Street Food and the Shaved Duck. Ally Nisbet’s the Shaved Duck feels closest in spirit to Fieri’s aesthetic, with chef Kat Wallace leading a joyful romp through barbecue and other classic comfort food — a romp focused on deliciousness rather than authenticity. So, yeah, you can order a pulled-pork sandwich here, or you can get it — with bacon, cheese, barbecue sauce and beans — over a baked potato. The smoked tri-tip? Straight-up or on a sandwich with bacon-Swiss sauce. It’s a party. I’ll meet you there as soon as my stylist is finished bleaching my tips.

Opened: 2008

Must order: The B.O.S.S. Sandwich ($13.99)