Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Baileys' Range

One of the more intriguing restaurants to open in 2016 was Shift, Test Kitchen & Take Out, which Dave Bailey operates as a sort of laboratory for dishes for his future restaurant concepts. Its first focus has been Bailey’s long-gestating barbecue restaurant, and the fun, why-the-heck-not? nature of the dishes I sampled during my visits to Shift suggest that this restaurant might follow in the footsteps of Baileys’ Range. The burgers here can be swanky (Dave’s Chop House, with aged sirloin, smoked Gouda, rosemary cream cheese and bacon jam), and they can be over-the-top (the American, which includes a fried mac-and-cheese patty). They are always excellent, and nothing shows this more clearly than the standard burger with nothing more than cheese.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily

Opened: 2011

Must order: Basic burger with cheese ($8.50) and small fries ($3)