Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Cristina M. Fletes (Post-Dispatch)

#20

Brasserie by Niche

Brian Moxey has taken over the kitchen at Gerard Craft’s Brasserie by Niche, succeeding Nick Blue. (Moxey is also the executive chef next door at Craft’s Taste.) As far as I can tell, the transition has been seamless. Which isn’t surprising. Of Craft’s restaurants, Brasserie has always been the most comfortable in its own skin, providing exactly the experience that its name promises, classic French fare in a convivial atmosphere. Brasserie isn’t the sort of restaurant that reinvents onion soup, escargots, cassoulet and steak frites, but makes your return to them inevitable and welcome.

Hours: Dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday

Last year's ranking: No. 16

Opened: 2009

Must order: Onion soup ($10)