Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by J.B. Forbes (Post-Dispatch)

Cielo Restaurant & Bar

The restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis continues to boast the prices you’d expect from the restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis. (Only one entree is under $30, while five are $40 or more.) But my latest visit found a looser, more playful menu from executive chef Gian Nicola Colucci: The selection of antipasti now includes toasted ravioli, and the menu directs you to the Milanese, a whopper of a bone-in breaded veal cutlet served over truffled mashed potatoes, as Colucci’s signature dish. Pasta is a highlight. I loved the cavatelli in a surprisingly light rabbit ragout graced with fennel’s gentle autumnal note.

Hours: Dinner daily, breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday, brunch Saturday-Sunday

Opened: 2008

Must order: Cavatelli (half-order $12, full $18)