First photo by David Carson (Post-Dispatch); add'l photos sponsored by restaurant
Cleveland-Heath
I admire Cleveland-Heath for many reasons, but if pressed to name exactly why Jennifer Cleveland and Eric (Ed) Heath’s Edwardsville restaurant excels, I’d point to its versatility. It feels like a neighborhood spot, and it does offer top-notch versions of casual fare (a burger, a pulled-pork sandwich, tacos), but it also rewards the destination-dining expectations of those who must drive a half-hour or longer to get there. I tend to gravitate toward the starters. Here you’ll find the kitchen being playful and taking chances. The highlight of my most recent visit riffed on the classic dim-sum dish shrimp toast, pairing it with a puckeringly tart version of the traditional Vietnamese dipping sauce nuoc cham. Also back on the menu this winter was one of my all-time favorite Cleveland-Heath appetizers, seared beef tongue with spaetzle. The heart of the menu is comfort food globally defined — both a pork chop with cornbread and a reverent take on pho.
Hours: Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday, brunch Saturday
Last year's ranking: No. 7
Opened: 2011
Must order: Pork porterhouse ($24)