First photo by Robert Cohen (Post-Dispatch); add'l photos sponsored by restaurant
Elaia
Ben Poremba announced last June that he was stepping back from his role as the chef of his acclaimed flagship restaurant. To take his place he hired Ben Grupe, a veteran of the side of dining few of us experience: country clubs (Old Warson and Meadowbrook) and international culinary competitions (he was the captain of the American Culinary Federation team, which won three gold medals at the 2016 Culinary Olympics in Germany). If his background and voice are different from Poremba’s, dining at Elaia is no less elegant or thrilling. Expect thoughtful, beautifully plated dishes rooted in continental tradition but viewed through a modern, global sensibility. Highlights of my most recent visit included a celeriac veloute enriched with root vegetables and chicken sausage and graced with shaved black truffle, a foie-gras torchon playfully paired with vanilla-poached pineapple and a gorgeous lamb en persillade that married classic and contemporary sous-vide technique. With Grupe leading the kitchen and a bread program now spearheaded by the talented baker Chris Scheets (formerly of Red Fox Baking & Catering), the already great Elaia is poised for an even brighter future.
Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: No. 2
Opened: 2012
Must order: Menu changes frequently