First photo by J.B. Forbes (Post-Dispatch); add'l photos sponsored by restaurant
Element
Though not yet 4 years old, Element has already experienced several lifetimes. When the restaurant debuted in 2013, it emphasized collaboration between a team of chefs led by Brian Hardesty of Guerrilla Street Food. I counted it among that year’s best new restaurants. Hardesty left Element a year later, and while the restaurant didn’t go bad, on my return visits it did strike me as adrift. In 2015, Element named as executive chef Josh Charles, Ben Poremba’s chef de cuisine at Elaia. It took a little while — when I went back while researching the 2016 STL 100, the new menu wasn’t quite clicking yet — but the talented young Charles has Element on track, with elegant, globally influenced dishes like steamed buns with jerk pork, harissa-braised pork shank and celery-root ravioli. Note: Just before press time, Charles departed Element for Blood chef de cuisine Tudor Seserman is now Element’s chef.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)
Last year's ranking: new
Opened: 2013
Must order: Celery-root ravioli ($13)