Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Farmhaus

After multiple nods as a semifinalist for “Best Chef: Midwest” at the James Beard Awards, Farmhaus chef and owner Kevin Willmann finally made it to the group of five finalists for the prestigious honor. (As this issue goes to press, Willmann again is a semifinalist for “Best Chef: Midwest” for the 2017 edition of the awards.) It’s a sign that Willmann, who was launched into the national spotlight in 2011 when Food & Wine magazine named him one of its “Best New Chefs,” continues to gain notice outside St. Louis. Meanwhile, at Farmhaus it’s business as usual. The menu changes daily, but you can usually count on the butcher’s plate of housemade charcuterie and accompaniments, the roasted Ozark Forest mushroom salad and maybe a Farmhaus classic like the bacon-wrapped meatloaf. Longtime fans know that freshly caught Gulf seafood is Farmhaus’ secret weapon — my last visit featured a gorgeous piece of red snapper — and if there is agnolotti or a similar pasta on the menu, I order it without question.

Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)

Last year's ranking: No. 4

Opened: 2010

Must order: Menu changes frequently

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