Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Fork & Stix

Fork & Stix, which will celebrate its 5th birthday this year, has repudiated several commonly accepted truths about the restaurant business. Diners are afraid to try new things? Fork & Stix makes its reputation on northern Thai dishes rarely seen in St. Louis: sai oua (grilled sausage), hung lay curry (pork shoulder and belly in a sauce that is sweet rather than spicy) and the dish that put it on the map, khao soi (an egg-noodle curry soup). Diners won’t go to out-of-the-way locations? Fork & Stix sits on a dead-end stub of a sidestreet on the eastern end of the Delmar Loop. Nor was it a long-hidden gem some lucky gastronaut discovered one day. Diners raved about it within weeks of its opening, and I once again include it without reservation in the STL 100.

Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)

Opened: 2012

Must order: Khao soi (with chicken, $9.95)

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