First photo by Christian Gooden (Post-Dispatch); add'l photos sponsored by restaurant
Mai Lee
Construction is finally underway on Nudo House, the long-awaited ramen restaurant from Mai Lee scion Qui Tran — so long-awaited that I dedicated Mai Lee’s entry in last year’s STL 100 to explaining why even the ramen-agnostic should be excited about it. (The tl;dr version: Mai Lee makes great soups: pho, bun bo hue and more.) This year, rather than needle Tran further about the delay, I’ll note instead that this St. Louis institution serves many dozens of dishes that aren’t soups, the exploration of which will keep you occupied for years. Consider one of my favorites, truu xao xa ot, a fiery, funky dish of lamb stir-fried with lemongrass and chiles, or you can even venture back to Lee Tran’s original restaurant by ordering from the menu of Chinese fare. However you proceed — even if you decide on soup! — an order of the salt-and-pepper calamari is obligatory.
Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 24
Opened: 1984
Must order: Muc chien gion (crispy salt & pepper calamari, $19.95)