Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by David Carson (Post-Dispatch)

Mariscos el Gato

Update: The chef of the Mariscos el Gato that opened on Cherokee Street in 2016 has reopened the restaurant under that name at 4561 Gravois in Bevo Mill. The location on Cherokee Street now operates as Mariscos Seafood. There is no connection between the two restaurants. This review is based on visits to the original location, with the original chef, in late 2016 and so is no longer applicable.

Original review: Cherokee Street is well known as the place to go in St. Louis for traditional Mexican cuisine. Generally, this has been taqueria fare, but 2016 newcomer Mariscos el Gato offers something else entirely: a menu focused on seafood in the style of Nayarit, a state on the Pacific coast of Mexico. Chef Pedro Diaz — his nickname is el Gato, hence the restaurant’s name — serves soups, ceviche, whole fried fish, sauteed shrimp and much more on his lengthy menu. Expect dishes that are salty, citrusy and spicy with guajillo and árbol chiles. The experience is unique from the beginning. Instead of chips and salsa, you receive a complimentary ceviche with a searing salsa verde.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily (closed Wednesday)

Last year's ranking: new

Opened: 2016

Must order: Caldo de langostinos ($14.99)