Photo by Laurie Skrivan (Post-Dispatch)
Olive + Oak
After a long run as executive sous chef at Chesterfield institution Annie Gunn’s, Jesse Mendica finally stepped into the spotlight when Mark Hinkle and Greg Ortyl named her executive chef of Olive + Oak. Other restaurateurs must be wondering why they didn’t hire her first. This Webster Groves restaurant has been a blockbuster since opening in January 2016, with prime tables booked weeks in advance. Among the many accolades it has already accumulated, I named it my best new restaurant of 2016, and in February the James Beard Foundation named Mendica a semifinalist for “Best Chef: Midwest.” From deceptively straightforward appetizers like cheese curds, crab dip and a reimagined clams casino to large-format steaks and roasted Dover sole, Medica invests familiar favorites with skill and heart. Meanwhile, the bustling dining room, overseen by Hinkle, exudes warmth and hospitality. Rarely does a new restaurant feel like such an essential part of its community.
Hours: Dinner daily
Last year's ranking: new
Opened: 2016
Must order: Blue-crab gratin ($14)