Photo by Roberto Rodriguez
Público
Mike Randolph’s Público was the blockbuster debut of 2015, and any serious reckoning of St. Louis’ most essential restaurants must account for it. Yes, I’ve ranked a few places above Público on this list, but if you want a feel for St. Louis dining circa 2017 — and where it could head from here — Público is the place to go. Executive chef Brad Bardon oversees a menu that retains many of the dishes I fell in love with in my initial review: smoked white fish tacos with jalapeño cream cheese; sweetbreads with pineapple and habanero chile; the arepa with a liver mousse, fried sage and maple syrup. And lately I’ve encountered remarkable specials, like cobia tiradito (think sashimi) with black garlic, citrus and aji panca. The heart of Público remains its oak-fired hearth. If it isn’t turning out the whole yellowtail snapper I devoured two years ago, then maybe it’s grilling pork ribs or half a chicken. Público is vital on its own, but its success has also helped Randolph enhance his status as one of St. Louis’ most exciting, forward-thinking chefs through such projects as Randolfi’s Italian Kitchen, which he opened near Público in the Delmar Loop, and his Diversion Dinners series of occasional, ticketed, experimental multiple-course dinners.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 6
Opened: 2015
Must order: Higado arepa ($10)