Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Ranoush

When the Syrian restaurant Ranoush opened in the Delmar Loop in 2009, a bellydancer would sometimes weave her way among the tables while you ate. I didn’t see any bellydancers on my most recent (and greatly overdue) visit, but the vibe here still feels more like an ongoing dinner party than a traditional restaurant. Indeed, you might be tempted to order a selection of the hot and cold mezze to share, dinner-party style. The hot mezze are especially inviting: kalaj (a pita stuffed with halloumi), batata harra (spicy potatoes) and the fava-bean dish foul moudames. Beef shawarma and chicken and lamb kebabs are highlights of the main courses. For eight years now, Ranoush has offered diners a welcoming introduction to Syrian cuisine and culture. We need it now more than ever.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily

Last year's ranking: new

Opened: 2009

Must order: Shish tawuk ($16.75)