Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Robert Cohen (Post-Dispatch)

Rice Thai Bistro

Bryan Prapaisilpa learned to cook from his mother when he was a teenager in Thailand. (He thought being able to cook would impress his friends when they were hanging out together, drinking.) Bryan’s wife, Nina, learned to cook from her own mother, whom he calls a “really, really, really good cook.” Those family legacies reveal themselves at the couple’s Winchester restaurant, where the menu of curries, stir-fried noodles and other familiar Thai dishes seems new, or at least newly exciting. I keep thinking about the green curry here, so vibrantly, deeply flavored that I couldn’t believe it when Prapaisilpa told me the recipe omits shrimp paste out of deference to vegetarians.

Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)

Opened: 2014

Must order: Green curry ($8.95 lunch, $10.95 dinner)