Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

#3

Sidney Street Café

Sidney Street Café is a special-occasion restaurant, of course, a place to celebrate a milestone anniversary or promotion, to splurge on fine food and drink just because. But it’s a far more accessible restaurant than you might realize. Even within the context of special occasions, Sidney Street Café indulges those diners (and the occasional restaurant critic) who are fans of the dishes that have made Kevin Nashan a finalist for “Best Chef: Midwest” at the prestigious James Beard Awards, as well as those who desire more traditional dishes, like the lobster turnovers and filet béarnaise. But you don’t need to consider it only for special occasions. Sure, last year I indulged in Nashan’s full tasting menu and was blown away by the variety and quality of the food. On my most recent visit, though, I sat at the bar, enjoyed a few courses — a pasta special smartly enriched with a little foie gras; the terrific rabbit porchetta, a rabbit dish that actually makes rabbit’s flavor distinctive — and left just as happy. Maybe Sidney Street isn’t an everyday restaurant, but it’s a restaurant to visit more often than you do.

Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)

Last year's ranking: No. 3

Opened: 1987

Must order: Menu changes frequently