Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Sid Hastings

Signature India

I haven’t encountered any Indian restaurant in St. Louis quite like Signature India. For one, it’s not simply a restaurant but also a bakery. There are afternoon-only and weekend-only snacks; there’s a breakfast menu. The cuisine of India’s south is the focus of Signature India’s regular menu, dishes like the fiery Andhra chicken curry and the less fiery, tangy ulavacharu biryani, which includes horsegram, a legume little-known in the United States. My go-to order is the Gongura goat curry. I’m still puzzling through its layers of flavor: chile hot, bracingly herbal, puckeringly sour. Signature India doesn’t offer a lunch buffet, but the menu includes specially priced lunch combination platters.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily, breakfast Saturday-Sunday

Opened: 2014

Must order: Gongura goat curry ($14.99)