Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Laurie Skrivan (Post-Dispatch)

#12

The Crossing

Sustained excellence in the restaurant industry is difficult enough — sustained excellence and relevance even more so. Nearly two decades after opening, Jim Fiala’s the Crossing is a slam-dunk choice for anniversaries or meetings with that must-land client. The classic French- and Italian-influenced fare is reliable but never boring: seared foie gras, roasted sea scallops, pastas to rival any Italian restaurant’s offerings. Vitally, the Crossing also still offers dishes you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Most recently, for me, it was gorgeous purplish-red slices of grilled venison loin fanned over sweet-potato gnocchi and slivered radishes. The Crossing’s four-course tasting menus (either the classic for $35 or the premium for $50) are the best way to experience the restaurant, and relative to the quality and quantity of food, even its grand tasting menu ($80 and up) is a good value.

Hours: Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday

Last year's ranking: No. 8

Opened: 1998

Must order: Tasting menu (four courses, $35 Classic or $50 Premium)