Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Post-Dispatch file photo

Three Flags Tavern

This restaurant has closed

Three Flags Tavern closed on March 5, 2017 After three years, Three Flags Tavern has settled into its role as a standout neighborhood bistro, the sort of place you’re tempted to think of as your “local” joint even when you live many miles away. And if you do live nearby, you’re downright ecstatic. John O’Brien is equally comfortable with bar grub (tacos, wings, pickled deviled eggs) and upscale dishes (a recent addition I dug: a pork-loin chop with gnocchi, pickled pears and a goat-cheese crema). He can bring back such a neglected classic as steak Diane. Maybe even more remarkably, O’Brien manages to make those dishes found seemingly everywhere these days — a burger, fried chicken — not just appealing but exciting.

Hours: Dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday (opens at 3 p.m. Monday-Friday)

Opened: 2014

Must order: Steak Diane ($32)