Photo by Cristina M. Fletes (Post-Dispatch)
Tony's
It still thrills me: the walk down the long hallway from Tony’s entrance to the maitre d’ stand; the maitre d’ introducing the table to its captain; the captain finishing and plating dishes on the tableside cart. While it’s generally a very good thing that excellent restaurants have become more accessible, more democratic, in recent years, you do need a little theater now and then. And the Tony’s experience has aged much better than St. Louis’ other old-school dining palaces. The cooking can be elegant — the pastas, especially: fettuccini with duck confit and wild mushrooms, linguine with pancetta and three perfect clams in a sauce that turns into a broth you’re tempted to drink from the bowl — but the kitchen also knows when the plate needs nothing more than a fat veal loin chop in a truffle sauce or the epic beef tenderloin with foie gras in a port-wine demi-glace. Tony’s remains the place in St. Louis for your most special of occasions. I also recommend it for hospitality self-care. Treat yourself to the Bommaritos’ unparalleled service. Let the theater lift your spirits.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 9
Opened: 1946
Must order: Linguine with fresh clams and pancetta ($22)