Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2018 archive)

Photo by Jerry Naunheim Jr.

#20

Beast Craft BBQ Co.

“Beast Craft BBQ Co. keeps rising in my estimation,” I wrote in last year’s STL 100. “Any higher and it might push its way into the ... Top 25.” Little did I know what owner and pitmaster David Sandusky was planning. He’s switched to Duroc pork and both prime and American-raised wagyu beef. The upgraded meats make a hell of a difference. The Texas-style Duroc pork belly is incredible, sticky and glistening with rendered fat. The prime brisket adds an even brawnier beef essence to the smoky, perfectly tender meat. He introduced the wagyu beef after my most recent visit. I can only imagine how it compares to the prime brisket. With its full slate of meats and excellent sides (the fresh-cut fries and Brussels sprouts with pork belly, especially), Beast has done more than muscle into the Top 25. It’s now the best barbecue restaurant in the St. Louis area.

Hours: Lunch and dinner (or until sold out) daily

Last year's ranking: Rest of the Best

Opened: 2014

Must order: Prime brisket (4 ounces $6, 8 ounces $11)