Photo by David Carson (Post-Dispatch)
Elaia
Ben Grupe, executive chef of Ben Poremba’s flagship Elaia, was the runner-up to represent the United States (yes, the entire country) in the 2019 edition of the prestigious international culinary competition the Bocuse d’Or. In other words, Grupe is a supremely talented chef, his star on the national culinary scene has only begun its ascent and you should dine at Elaia sooner rather than later. My most recent dinner here showcased Grupe’s technical skill, painter’s eye and knack for nuanced contrasts of flavor and texture: a foie-gras terrene with spiced bread pudding, a pear coulis and poached pears; smoky salmon gravlax wrapped in a gossamer slice of crisp, sweet apple; an umami feast of miso-marinated tuna and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms over a porcini puree. My favorite dish, though, was strikingly simple: a bowl of polenta, creamy with Parmigiano-Reggiano and the yolk of a poached egg, paired with a veal ragu. Grupe couldn’t resist grating heady black truffle over the bowl, but even with this luxury, the polenta was soulful and comforting. Having made Elaia his own, Grupe is also ushering in the next generation of St. Louis chefs. His assistant at the Bocuse d’Or competition was Elaia cook Jared Dix, at the time all of 19 years old.
Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: No. 2
Opened: 2012
Must order: Menu changes frequently