Last year, I promoted Pizzeoli to the STL 100’s Top 25 in recognition not only of the transcendently great pizzas at this Soulard restaurant but also of owner Scott Sandler’s ferocious devotion to perfecting a Neapolitan-style crust. In September 2017, Sandler sold Pizzeoli to Kyle Weber, a first-time restaurateur. (Sandler wanted to focus on Pizza Head, the New York-style pizzeria he opened in May 2017.) Pizzeoli’s return from the Top 25 to the Rest of the Best isn’t a demotion so much as acknowledging the transition. My visit a few months after the change found essentially the same menu (meat toppings have since become available). And the fabled crust was very good, if not as ethereal as it had been. I look forward to Pizzeoli redefining itself over 2018.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, lunch Tuesday-Saturday (closed Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 24
Must order: The Bianca pizza ($13)