Post-Dispatch file photo
J. Devoti Trattoria
Anthony Devoti closed Five Bistro in March 2018, ending an acclaimed 12-year run that began in Forest Park Southeast’s Grove neighborhood and in 2009 moved to the Hill. Five was a mainstay of the STL 100’s Top 25, but I had no time to mourn it. Devoti reopened the space a month later as J. Devoti Trattoria, a name that suggests the new concept’s Italian influence and a more casual, family-friendly vibe. Through all the changes, though, Devoti’s commitment to local vendors and seasonal cooking is steadfast, and many of the dishes I ate here last summer (a chilled turnip soup with corn and cherry tomatoes; cheese ravioli with confit chicken, zucchini and shishito peppers in a white wine-chive butter sauce; pork belly, smoked and finished on the grill, atop a spaghetti-squash pancake) would have felt at home at Five as well.
Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday
Last year's ranking: New this year
Opened: 2018