Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2019 archive)

Photo by Hillary Levin (Post-Dispatch)



John Perkins’ Juniper has moved into a gorgeous new space in the Central West End. It’s only about a half-mile from the restaurant’s original location, but it looks and feels like the bigger, brighter stage Juniper has demanded since opening in 2013. The new kitchen boasts a wood-fired grill, and Juniper has added an oyster program, but the heart of the restaurant remains the thoughtful, respectful Southern cooking from Perkins and executive chef Glenister Wells. My most recent visit revealed more of the small, brilliant notes that have always set Juniper above much of the Southern cooking in town. Head-on shrimp and heirloom Bloody Butcher’s grits distinguish the shrimp and grits, and here the ubiquitous pimento cheese is baked into a bubbling spread. And, yes, naturally, Juniper’s fried chicken made the move.

Hours: Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday, brunch Saturday-Sunday

Last year's ranking: No. 22

Opened: 2013

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