Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2019 archive)

Photo by J.B. Forbes (Post-Dispatch)

Levant

St. Louis doesn’t lack for very good Syrian and, more broadly, very good Levantine restaurants. Ahmad Hameed’s own brother runs one of them, Ranoush in the Delmar Loop. Still, Hameed saw an opening for something different. At Levant, which took over the iconic Kopperman’s space in the Central West End last year, Levant serves the food he ate while growing up in Damascus: dawood basha, meatballs in a garlicky tomato sauce; bameh, an okra stew with beef; smoky freekeh with beef or chicken and a tart yogurt sauce. Those seeking more familiar fare — hummus, falafel, kebabs — will also be impressed. Hameed, whose culinary career includes time at a seven-star hotel in Abu Dhabi, is a chef with serious chops.

Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)

Last year's ranking: New this year

Opened: 2018

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