Photo by Colter Peterson (Post-Dispatch)
Sardella
Gerard Craft’s Sardella has worn a few different looks since it replaced his flagship Niche in late 2016. The original menu was swanky, playful Italian fare by way of California. Craft then brought in the voice of Pastaria executive chef Ashley Shelton. This past fall, Shelton decided to focus on Pastaria, and Craft named Brian Moxey Sardella’s executive chef. Moxey, a veteran of several Craft restaurants as well as acclaimed chef Marco Canora’s Insieme and Hearth in New York City, is leaning into the Italian tradition behind Sardella, with pastas developed with pasta chef Giovanni Brex and hearty fare such as braised short ribs with trumpet mushrooms over polenta. I’ve liked Sardella in all its guises, and my favorite dish from Sardella’s current incarnation — chicken liver mousse enlivened by basil, apple, jalapeño and pecan — suggests nudging convention might still be its best path.
Hours: Dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday
Last year's ranking: No. 9
Opened: 2016