Tai Ke
Potential redevelopment looms over the intersection of Olive Boulevard and Interstate 170 in University City, which has become one of St. Louis’ most vital restaurant crucibles. And while the best of these restaurants might occupy modest storefronts, they aren’t “hidden gems.” Tai Ke has been packed more or less since day one with diners eager for chef-owner Calvin Koong’s take on Taiwanese cuisine, from street snacks like a hot dog cradled in a sticky-rice “bun” to brimming bowls of braised-beef noodle soup and clear clam soup, from the sizzling clay pot filled with the Signature Three Cup Chicken to my new obsession, the chile-spiked Taiwanese popcorn chicken. Redevelopment happens every day. Restaurants as essential as Tai Ke don’t.
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily (closed Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: Rest of the Best
Opened: 2015