Photo by Hillary Levin (Post-Dispatch)
The Benevolent King
The latest venture from chef-restaurateur Ben Poremba (Elaia, Olio, Nixta) feels less like a restaurant than a dinner party with a killer cocktail menu. For the food, Poremba has taken inspiration from his mother’s native Morocco, though as is his wont, he draws flavors from all around the Mediterranean and elsewhere. With Juana Caballo and Anne Fosterling as Poremba’s lieutenants in the kitchen, the casual, oft-changing menu likely will feature a chicken tagine, lamb meatballs in a smoked tomato sauce seasoned with ras al hanout and the fresh farmer’s cheese known as jben. The spreads and small dishes known as salatim are a highlight. Mixologist Tony Saputo inaugurated the Benevolent King’s impressive cocktail program; he has since left to run the bar program at the new Midwestern Meat & Drink downtown.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday
Last year's ranking: New this year
Opened: 2018