Post-Dispatch file photo
The Crossing
After 20 years, not only can the Crossing still hold its own against younger, hipper restaurants — and the depth of its wine list will beat most newcomers — it also continues to incubate rising talent. Thu Rein Oo came to the United States as a refugee from Myanmar. He started working at the Crossing in 2008 as a dishwasher and over the next decade worked his way up to lead the kitchen for owner Jim Fiala. Oo continues the Crossing’s knack for cooking simultaneously modern and classical (Texas quail with maitake mushrooms and butternut squash over crushed potatoes in a quail jus) and for breathing new life into dishes (tuna tartare topped with lemon cream and hackleback caviar). The Crossing has ended its less expensive $35 four-course tasting menu, but the four-course $50 menu remains a tremendous value.
Hours: Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday
Last year's ranking: No. 12
Opened: 1998