Photo by Cristina M. Fletes (Post-Dispatch)
Tony's
The familiar names are leaving downtown. Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood closed a few years ago. J.F. Sanfilippo’s Italian Restaurant called it quits at the end of 2018. Kemoll’s left in January and has reopened in Maryland Heights. Tony’s abides — though not without some changes. Vince Bommarito Jr. left as executive chef in May 2018. Vince Sr. remains, however, and Tony’s still stands as the pinnacle of a certain kind of dining in St. Louis, its formality old-fashioned but not unwelcome. I sighed with pleasure when my recent order of osso buco (a special, though in keeping with Tony’s classic Italian fare) was served with a marrow spoon. I sighed with pleasure when I ate the marrow spread on toast. Yes, yes, Tony’s is a special-occasion, dress-up splurge, but every now and then you need to treat yourself to its food and hospitality.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 13
Opened: 1946