Farmhaus

Farmhaus looks more or less the same as it did when Kevin Willmann opened the restaurant a decade ago. Then he was a rising star, soon to be honored with a Food & Wine “best new chef” designation, among other accolades. On my most recent visit, the menus were presented as cheap photocopies, complete with fuzzy negative space along the edges. But the food was very good, if familiar. As you would expect at Farmhaus, Gulf seafood starred: grouper, first in cioppino with the spice and sweetness of fennel sausage, then as the feature over Parisian gnocchi in a savory anglaise. Duck breast, crisp skin and blushing meat, stood out on its sensible bed of oyster mushrooms and wheat-berry farrotto in a reduction of dark berries and red wine. I could have eaten a meal like this at Farmhaus 10 years ago, which is comforting but also makes me wonder how Willmann will approach this new decade.

Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday)

Last year's ranking: No. 8

Opened: 2010