Photo by Sid Hastings
J. Devoti Trattoria
Anthony Devoti's decision to recast his acclaimed Five Bistro as the more casual J. Devoti Trattoria struck me as smart when I reviewed the new restaurant two years ago. Why not open up Devoti's cooking to a broader audience with pizza, a burger and a kids menu alongside his seasonally driven fare? When I returned to J. Devoti for this year's list, the decision made even more sense. On this visit, the obligatory phone photo I took of my meal — a rack of lamb, an ideal medium-rare, with chanterelles and braised white beans — didn't turn out great. Frustrated, I instead posted a text description on Instagram, concluding: “Eat at J. Devoti Trattoria, where ... Devoti & team aren't flashy, they just know how to cook.” The sentiment received as many likes as any photo I shared on Instagram last year.
Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: No. 21
Opened: 2018