Morning Glory Diner
Not every rising-star chef needs a multimillion-dollar buildout and multicourse tasting menu. The St. Louis dining scene benefits from updated versions of classic formats, too. Ari Ellis wanted to open a diner, so she did. Diners hold a nostalgic appeal for her, and there is also a practical aspect, she told me last year: “You can always get breakfast in a diner.” Morning Glory Diner shines equally at breakfast and lunch. Standouts from the breakfast menu include buttermilk biscuits with sausage gravy and johnny cakes with fried chicken. This is a diner, so of course there is a griddled burger for lunch. Be sure to ask if there is any fresh-baked pie available.
Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday (closed Monday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: New this year
Opened: 2019