Ian Froeb's STL 100

Photo by Hillary Levin (Post-Dispatch)

Taco Circus

When Taco Circus last appeared on the STL 100 in 2016, it was a scrappy Tex-Mex restaurant punching above its weight in a cramped Bevo Mill space. This past fall, Austin, Texas, native Christian Ethridge relocated his restaurant to bigger digs with a more polished appearance, but Taco Circus' soul is unchanged, with generous servings of Tex-Mex fare distinguished by thoughtful but unshowy technique. The oversize Kingshighway Tacos — the Willie Nelson with grilled skirt steak, or the Chippewa with pork-steak carnitas — might be the best introduction to Taco Circus. But don't overlook the St. Cecelia plate (huevos rancheros) and other breakfast dishes. New to the Southwest Garden location are excellent housemade flour tortillas.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily

Last year's ranking: Last included in 2016

Opened: 2015

Many St. Louis-area restaurants are closed or limiting their dining options during the coronavirus pandemic.