Post-Dispatch file photo
The Crossing
Consistent isn't a sexy adjective, but when you have been operating at the Crossing's level for more than 20 years — several lifetimes, in restaurant years — it is high praise indeed. Owner and executive chef Jim Fiala and, since 2017, chef Thu Rein Oo can do rustic tagliatelle in a Bolognese ragu and refined foie gras, delicate scallops and heady venison. The Crossing also benefits from a steady view of how a fine restaurant should operate. Rare among upscale restaurants on this list in our fast-casual age, it offers a proper sit-down lunch (an excellent not-smashed cheeseburger included). Even more remarkable is the consistency of the Crossing's welcome. I can't remember a visit when I didn't see at least one familiar face among the front-of-house staff.
Hours: Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday (closed Sunday)
Last year's ranking: No. 13
Opened: 1998