Photo by Roberto Rodriguez

Ices Plain & Fancy

Ices Plain & Fancy is a science lesson the entire family can enjoy: ice cream flash-churned in front of you with liquid nitrogen, served in flavors classic (vanilla, chocolate, cherry cordial), more contemporary (my favorite, the salted dulce de leche custard) and adults-only (the dark-and-stormy-aping Dark & Fancy; the Frozen Dude, a tribute to white Russians and the “Big Lebowski”). First-time visitors will be won over by the ice cream’s incredibly smooth texture, while regulars know to look for chef Max Crask’s changing selection of Fancy Ices. My 2016 will be spent in a highly scientific, comprehensive study to determine which of St. Louis’ great new(ish) parlors, here or Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery, serves the smoothest ice cream.

Opened: 2014

Must order: Salted Dulce de Leche Custard (regular $5.43, large $6.72)